Matzo Ball Billiards

I should not be allowed to ridicule the way other people dress.

There are two primary reasons why I believe this. For one, I would hate for someone to do this to me. I’m a pretty big believer in the whole “don’t put out the kind of energy you wouldn’t want directed at you” thing. The second, and more obvious reason, is because I dress like the (probable) lovechild of Frog and Toad.

To some, this is complimentary. But this elevated swamp aesthetic isn’t for everyone, hence barring me from making any awfully judgmental statements. However, I’m still allowed to be a little bit mean if I pass it off as critique.

Today? I am once again going to war on my fellow man’s suiting habits. Or rather, what they choose to wear on top of their suits. I’ve talked about the sorry state of contemporary men’s suiting before. In my circles, many guys wear suits every weekend for the Jewish Sabbath. But as we exit these colder months, I’m left wondering about the perhaps even more worrisome state of men’s outerwear.

For some reason, almost nobody I know wears a proper overcoat over their suit during the winter. Instead, 90% of guys in my age range (20-30) opt for their casual winter coats. These aren’t even bad coats. They’re often North Face, Canada Goose, Moose Knuckles, etc. Expensive coats that definitely keep you warm – and look just fine over most outfits.

The problem? These types of winter coats usually look a bit silly when worn over a suit. As a good rule of thumb, tailoring traditionally benefits from being paired with… you guessed it – more tailoring.

There’s just something so incredibly visually jarring about a suit, especially something made from a more formal/business-ey worsted wool, clashing against a down puffer jacket or fur-lined parka. If we’re trying to look elegant, we needn’t sabotage the look by defaulting to utilitarian options when it gets a bit chilly out.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not knocking these types of jackets. I love a good parka. They have their place! But with tailoring, the overcoat is a much better option. Obviously, there are many kinds of overcoats. They come in all type of colors, cuts, and patterns. My opinion? The bigger, the better. Of course, it should more or less fit you. But tailored outerwear looks best when there’s a bit of excess. Longer lengths. Fuller bodies. Sleeves with some room in them. Just look at Chandler and Joey – they’re dripped out for a funeral. It’s rad.

This is in pretty stark contrast to the kinds of mass-market overcoats popularized in the last 20 years or so. Contemporary designer offerings are often cut above the knee, with slim construction throughout the body, shoulders, and sleeves. The result is a bit less than stellar.

There’s just no dynamic “oomph” factor. Even worse, on the cheaper end of the spectrum, these coats are rarely even 100% wool. Meaning they keep you less warm, and often have a much shorter lifespan. To be honest, if this is all guys see on the market when considering giving up their North Face/suit combo, I don’t entirely blame them.

But I’m trying to spread the good word here! In fashion-minded spaces, the pendulum has already swung back in favor of roomier fits, and tailoring is no exception. Bigger suits are cool again. So are bigger coats. The problem? For real quality, this shit can be kinda expensive.

Shopping vintage is a great and affordable way to score quality winter overcoats in traditional cuts and materials. Here’s a vintage Harris Tweed option I scored for about $80 or so on eBay last fall.

It’s definitely on the larger, slouchier side. The rugged texture and unstructured body are also fairly informal. This can be paired super easily with everything but the most formal of suits, as well as more causal outfits. It’s a real beauty.

A more recent pickup from a couple months ago, is this gorgeous light brown herringbone DB overcoat I found at my local flea market (The Grand Bazaar, UWS).

While also on the big and slouchy side, the body has more structure, and it’s fully lined. I’d say it leans more formal – but I think it works casually, too. Again, the cut is long, and the fabric is allowed room to just flow!

In my opinion, single-breasted overcoats look best when worn open, as some of their dynamism is lost when they’re fully buttoned closed. DB coats work in both configurations, though! Open or closed, there’s just a ton of dimension.

I think a lot of guys have a weird relationship with long coats. For some reason, some fellas seem to equate a long coat with a feminine look. But historically, this isn’t the case. Both men and women alike have worn long, dramatic outerwear for an eternity.

Many fellas, especially those of the millennial or millennial-adjacent persuasion, are seemingly allergic to clothing that even teeters on the edge of “roomy.” I get it. I barely clear 5’9″ on a good day and it can be scary to consider being swallowed whole by some funky, oversized bullshit. But I assure you, everyone looks good in full-fitting tailoring. Not baggy, per se. Just full! Something you can breathe in. It’s comfier, I promise. Most people don’t, however, look great in overcoat-kinis, dubbed so because they’re awfully skimpy.

Much like a lot of modern, shrunken suits, the skimpy overcoat offers little-to-no punch because it feels like something that is ashamed of what it is. It’s like, “Yeah, I guess I’m an overcoat. But I end above the knee! My lapels? Tinyyyy. Don’t worry. I don’t mean to impose! Unless…? Hahaha JK, JK…unless…?”

Ahem. End scene. Coat roleplay over.

Some guys seem to go for a peacoat when looking for a more formal outerwear option. I like peacoats, but they’re not really a traditional formal garment. The context and history of a piece of clothing often works in or against its favor – and when paired with a formal suit – I still think peacoats feel like a bit of a miss. Plus, they don’t keep your legs warm.

So – enough with the puffer jackets. Enough with the down parkas. Enough with the mini-overcoat-kinis. Just. Try. Wearing. A. Long. Big. Ass. Coat!!!

This blog is in danger of becoming an outlet for me to vent about my pet peeves in men’s style, but so long as I’m occasionally optimistic on here, that’s ok with me. Also, it’s getting warm out. This literally will not matter in two weeks. But I’ve been getting worked up about it all winter! Sue me.